Diamond and pearl enamelled mourning ring

Victorian rose cut diamond and pearl black enamel 18ct gold mourning ring with inscription circa 1846

The jewellery of our predecessors doesn’t come any sadder or sweeter than this little flower. At the centre sits a lovely rose cut diamond held in tiny silver claws, as was the custom of the era. Five luminous silvery pearls sit around it to form a pansy, which according to the jewellery language of the time indicated the wearer was dwelling in her thoughts. Inside the band we learn why, as here is the inscription, “Ellen Watson ob 30, april 1846“. The full set of crisp hallmarks, which include the duty mark, confirm the ring was made in 1846, no doubt commissioned by Ellen’s daughter or sister when they were in mourning for her death. The delicate, leaf-like shoulders have lovely black enamel detailing for a gothic look that feels really edgy today. The flower measures around 8.2mm with a rise of 4mm. The shoulders taper to a band of 1.8mm. The date letter has been struck seemingly by accident on the outside of one shoulder. The flower has space for a locket behind it, now vacant.

Size: J (UK) / 4 3/4 (US)

Hallmarked: yes

Maker’s mark: ES (indistinct)

Date letter: k (1846)

Assay office: London

Composition of gold: 18ct

Gross weight: 2g

Condition: noticeable wear to at least two pearls; pretty good otherwise